Every roof is a negotiation between cost, climate, and how you plan to use the building over time. I have torn off roofs that should have lasted longer and inspected metal panels that outlived the furnace beneath them. Picking between metal and asphalt shingles isn’t about trends, it is about matching material behavior to your home’s environment and your priorities. Utah’s Wasatch Front, with its hot summers, snow load, and freeze-thaw cycles, is an unforgiving teacher. The right choice rewards you with decades of quiet performance. The wrong one can mean ridge caps flapping in a canyon wind or granules clogging gutters years before their time.
What follows draws on field experience across American Fork, Highland, Lehi, and the mountain communities nearby. The comparison is practical, not theoretical, with numbers you can sanity check and trade-offs you can feel. If you want personalized guidance for your roof pitch, ventilation, solar plans, or HOA rules, Mountain Roofers can walk your property and run the details with you.
What performance really means on a roof
When people say a roof “lasts 30 years,” they often mean a warranty period, not the point at which the roof stops shedding water. Performance is broader. It covers how a roof resists hail, the way it ventilates an attic, noise during a cloudburst, heat gain on an August afternoon, and how gracefully it ages.
Metal roofing is a system, not just panels. It starts with the substrate or sheathing, then an ice and water membrane in cold climates, then panels attached with exposed or concealed fasteners. Finishes matter. A Kynar 500 or Hylar resin paint holds color and resists chalking better than standard polyester. Thickness matters too. Most residential steel panels land at 26 or 24 gauge, with 24 gauge offering better dent resistance. Aluminum is lighter and more corrosion resistant near salt or chemicals, though steel is more common inland.
Asphalt shingles are also systems. Underlayment, starter strips, drip edge, proper nailing pattern, and ventilation determine whether that 30-year laminated shingle makes it 18 years or 28. The shingle itself is a fiberglass mat with asphalt and mineral granules that shield against ultraviolet light and add fire resistance. Heavier architectural shingles usually outlast three-tab options. Ventilation and attic insulation play outsized roles. A shingle bakes from below as much as from above if hot attic air has no escape.
Lifespan and what actually ends a roof’s life
In northern Utah, a quality standing seam metal roof can reasonably run 40 to 70 years if installed correctly, with finish warranties often around 30 to 40 years and weathertight warranties available with specific manufacturers and details. The same climate sees architectural asphalt shingles go 18 to 30 years under average exposure. The spread is wide because roofs fail for different reasons in the field.
Metal’s weak points are usually at penetrations and edges. A sloppy boot around a plumbing vent, a misaligned ridge with inadequate ventilation, or a fastener backed out after a decade of thermal cycling can become the starting point for a leak. None of these are inherent to metal, but they are installation details that matter more than brochure promises.
Asphalt shingles age visibly. Granule loss accelerates after 12 to 15 years, especially on southern exposures, around chimneys, and beneath tree shade that encourages moss. Seal strips can fatigue, letting wind lift tabs. Flashing around skylights and sidewalls often determines replacement timing as much as the field shingles.
If you plan to live in the home 20 years or less, asphalt can make financial sense. If you plan to pass the house to your kids, metal’s long arc starts to look compelling.
Cost and value over time
Homeowners often ask for a straight price comparison. The range shifts with market metal prices, labor availability, and the complexity of your roof. As a baseline in our region, expect architectural asphalt shingles installed on a typical gable roof to fall roughly in the 5 to 9 dollars per square foot range, including tear-off and underlayment. Metal roofs tend to land in the 9 to 16 dollars per square foot range for residential standing seam, with exposed-fastener metal at the lower end and premium concealed-fastener profiles near the top.
The upfront delta is real. Maintenance and replacement cycles narrow it. A homeowner who replaces asphalt shingles twice over 50 years usually spends more than a single metal roof with one repaint or a limited panel repair in the same period. Insurance and energy can shift the math a bit as well. Carriers in hail-prone areas sometimes offer discounts for impact-rated metal roofs. Summer cooling loads can drop a few percent with high-reflectance metal finishes. Those are modest but not imaginary savings.
Snow, ice, and winter performance
Utah roofs earn their keep in winter. The three winter realities we address most are ice dams, snow slides, and freeze-thaw induced leaks.
Metal sheds snow more readily. That is both asset and liability. You want snow to release rather than stack and creep toward the eave. You do not want a heavy slab of ice dropping onto your walk or ripping gutters. Snow retention systems solve this. We install continuous bars or pad-style snow guards above doorways, decks, and slope breaks to control melt and release. Without those, a powder day followed by a sunny morning can create a dramatic roof avalanche.
Asphalt shingles hold snow in place, which reduces slides but can worsen ice dams if the attic is warm. With poor ventilation, heat escapes, melts the underside of the snowpack, and refreezes at the cold eave. The cure is not a shingle change, it is air sealing, insulation, and continuous ridge and soffit ventilation. Ice and water shield membranes at the eaves are mandatory by code in our snow zones. We extend them farther upslope on shallow pitches.
Both systems need ventilation to equalize roof deck temperatures. Metal panels on a vented assembly tolerate ice better since there are fewer pathways for meltwater to creep beneath laps. Shingle roofs depend more directly on intact seal strips and staggered joints. On low-slope areas near dormers, metal often wins on watertightness.
Heat, sun, and the long Utah summer
Asphalt shingles absorb heat. Dark colors amplify it. On a July afternoon, a black shingle can hit surface temperatures over 150 degrees. That heat transfers to the attic unless ventilation is excellent. Shingles now come in “cool roof” colors that reflect more solar energy, but their reflectance still trails a high-quality metal finish.
Metal roofs with a cool pigment finish bounce more sunlight. The attic runs cooler, and ductwork in that space loses less energy. In two similar ranch homes Mountain Roofers we re-roofed in Lehi, both with R-38 attic insulation and continuous ridge vents, the metal roof reduced peak attic temperatures by roughly 15 to 20 degrees compared to its prior aged dark shingle. That translated to a modest but noticeable drop in afternoon AC runtime. It is not a magic bullet, but it is part of a whole-house strategy.
Color stability also differs. A Kynar-coated metal panel resists chalking and fading for decades. Asphalt shingle color shifts as granules weather. On partial replacements, matching aged shingles is rarely perfect. With metal, replacing a small hail-dented section after 12 years may still read visually clean if the finish has aged evenly.
Wind, hail, and impact resistance
We see canyon gusts in American Fork and exposed ridgelines that punish roofs. A properly installed architectural shingle with six nails per shingle and sealed edges can carry wind ratings over 110 mph. That rating assumes perfect conditions and fresh seal strips.
Metal standing seam panels handle uplift well when fastened to code with clips and proper clip spacing. The weak points tend to be at ridge and eave details, not in the field. Exposed-fastener panels are more vulnerable at the fasteners, which can loosen over time as the metal expands and contracts.
Hail is nuanced. Metal dents. Thick 24 gauge steel resists dents better than 29 gauge. A baseball-size hailstone can crater both metal and shingles, but the outcomes differ. Dents in metal are usually cosmetic and do not compromise waterproofing. Hail that fractures shingle granule layers can shorten shingle life even if the roof doesn’t leak immediately. Insurance adjusters treat the two differently. If your neighborhood has frequent small hail, asphalt may hide scars better in the short term, while metal often weathers better over the long term.
Noise and comfort
The old barn roof cliché persists: rain on metal must be loud. On open-framed barns, yes. On a home with solid sheathing, underlayment, insulation, and ceiling drywall, the sound difference between metal and shingles is small. During a hard rain, you hear the storm either way. In a bedroom under a vaulted ceiling without an attic, we specify sound-damping underlayment when homeowners are sensitive. In standard attic builds, the insulation does most of the acoustic work.
Fire safety
Metal roofing is non-combustible, which offers peace of mind in wildfire-adjacent areas or near fireworks. Asphalt shingles carry Class A fire ratings as systems when installed with the right underlayment, but the shingle itself is combustible. In neighborhoods against foothills, we sometimes see metal specified to reduce ember ignition risks along eaves and valleys.
Weight and structure
Asphalt shingles weigh around 2 to 3 pounds per square foot, depending on the product. Metal systems usually fall in the 1 to 1.5 pounds per square foot range, sometimes less with aluminum. On older homes where rafters are undersized, the lighter weight of metal can be a structural advantage. Either way, your roof framing should be assessed. We add ice-load considerations on north-facing slopes and at valley convergences where snow drifts.
Aesthetics and curb appeal
Asphalt shingles come in many profiles and colors. Architectural shingles add shadow lines that read well on traditional homes. High-end designer shingles mimic slate or wood shakes at a lower cost and weight than the real thing. Color matching across additions is usually straightforward at install, harder a decade later.
Metal offers distinct looks. Standing seam lines are crisp and contemporary. Matte finishes in charcoal or deep bronze look elegant against stucco or timber. Exposed-fastener panels communicate a more agricultural feel, popular on outbuildings and modern farmhouse designs. Metal shakes and tiles exist for those who want classic forms with metal durability, but costs rise and details get more intricate.
The best aesthetic is the one that respects your home’s architecture and your neighborhood. HOAs sometimes limit panel styles or require specific shingle colors. We navigate those submittals regularly.
Installation realities and contractor skill
A roof is only as good as the crew that installs it. Asphalt shingle installation is familiar to most roofers. It still demands consistent nail placement, proper flashing at walls and chimneys, starter course alignment, and ventilation details.
Metal demands more precision. Panel layout has to accommodate expansion and contraction. Clip spacing varies by panel type, gauge, and wind zone. Flashing around skylights and sidewalls is custom-bent aluminum or steel, not off-the-shelf plastic. Penetrations should use high-temperature boots and butyl-backed closures, not just caulk. The difference between a 50-year roof and a 15-year headache often lives in those details.
We see DIY attempts on both materials. Shingles seem approachable until the first valley cut meets an out-of-square dormer. Metal looks easy until oil canning shows up from over-tightened fasteners. If you are hiring, ask to see profiles the crew has installed, not just photos from a manufacturer’s brochure. A walk on a past job tells you more than a stack of estimates.
Maintenance you should expect
No roof is maintenance-free. The right plan keeps your warranty intact and small issues small.
For asphalt shingles, plan annual or biannual inspections. Look for lifted tabs, missing granules in gutters, cracked pipe boots, and sealant fatigue at metal flashings. Keep moss off with gentle chemical treatments, not pressure washers. Clear valleys and gutters of leaves before the first heavy snow to reduce ice dam issues.
For metal, check fasteners, especially on exposed-fastener systems. Replace neoprene washers that have cracked. Keep debris out of panel ribs and valleys. Inspect snow guards and heat tape if installed. Touch up scratches with manufacturer-approved paint to protect edges. Finish warranties usually require periodic cleaning, especially in areas with airborne pollutants.
Neither system benefits from foot traffic. If https://www.google.com/maps/place/Roof+inspection+services/@40.4170459,-111.802081,47593m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m6!3m5!1s0x2a44bd1ba8fb264d:0x35505ee5bc54f063!8m2!3d40.368965!4d-111.82284!16s%2Fg%2F11l30tjkm1!5m1!1e3?entry=ttu&g_ep=EgoyMDI1MDgwNi4wIKXMDSoASAFQAw%3D%3D you must walk a roof, soft-soled shoes and careful step placement are mandatory. On metal standing seam, walk on the flats near panel support. On shingles, avoid hot afternoons when asphalt is soft enough to scuff.
Solar compatibility and future upgrades
Solar changes the calculus for many owners. Metal standing seam is the most solar-friendly roofing you can buy. Clamps attach to seams without penetrations, which reduces leak risk and simplifies panel removal if service is needed. When we plan for PV, we lay out seam spacing to align with module rails.
Asphalt shingles work well with solar too, but there are more penetrations. Use flashed mounts with double gaskets and butyl. If your shingles are more than halfway through their life, replace the roof first. Pulling and re-laying a solar array for a re-roof is costly.
Snow retention becomes even more important with solar. Panels are slick, and snow will release in sheets. Plan guard placement to protect lower roofs and walkways.
Environmental footprint and recyclability
Asphalt shingles are petroleum-based, and most tear-offs in the United States still head to landfills, though some markets recycle them into road base or asphalt pavement. Metal roofing is often made with a significant percentage of recycled content, and it is fully recyclable at end of life. Lifespan matters as much as composition. One metal roof instead of two or three shingle roofs is a meaningful difference over 50 to 70 years.
Cool-roof finishes lower peak energy demand. It is not a substitute for insulation and air sealing, but it helps. If you are building a tight, efficient home, metal can be part of the envelope strategy.
When asphalt is the smart call
Asphalt shingles shine on complex, highly cut-up roofs with lots of hips, valleys, and penetrations. The material is flexible and forgiving around skylights and dormers. If budget is tight and you plan to sell within a decade, a high-quality architectural shingle offers reliable protection and attractive curb appeal. Repairs are simpler and cheaper, and most buyers recognize and accept shingles without explanation.
In historic neighborhoods where metal would look out of place, shingles may also be the better fit. And in heavy tree cover where falling branches are a constant, replacing a few damaged shingles can be easier than swapping a dented metal panel.
When metal earns its keep
Metal pays you back on simple rooflines with long runs, in high-snow zones where sliding snow is a feature not a bug once managed, and on homes where longevity and lower maintenance matter. If you are installing solar, dealing with ember exposure, or seeking to lighten roof dead load on older framing, metal stands out. For cabins and modern mountain homes, the aesthetic is often precisely what the architecture calls for.
A field-tested checklist to choose wisely
Use this simple decision aid to get oriented before you collect bids:
- How long do you intend to own the home, and will a second replacement fall inside that window? Do you plan to install solar within the next 5 years? Is your roofline simple or highly complex with many penetrations? What are your biggest climate pressures: snow load, heat gain, wind, hail, wildfire? Does your HOA or historical district limit materials or colors?
If you answer yes to long-term ownership, solar plans, simple roof geometry, and wildfire or heavy snow concerns, metal likely deserves a serious look. If your priorities skew to first cost, complex rooflines, and near-term resale, architectural shingles often win.
Real numbers from the Wasatch Front
Over the last few years, we have re-roofed dozens of homes between American Fork and Alpine. A typical 2,000 square foot rambler with a moderate 6:12 pitch, two plumbing vents, a furnace flue, and a standard ridge vent lands near 12,000 to 16,000 dollars for architectural shingles, including tear-off, ice and water shield at eaves, and new flashings. The same house in 24 gauge standing seam with a high-performance finish and snow retention above entry areas often prices between 22,000 and 30,000 dollars. Complex rooflines, skylights, and steep pitches push costs up for both.
Those are real-world ranges, not internet averages. Material markets shift. Labor availability matters. The gap feels bigger during times when steel prices spike. Over the last decade, the long-run trend holds: metal costs more at install, less over the life cycle.
The quiet value of ventilation and details
Regardless of material, the boring parts of a roof produce the best value. Balanced soffit and ridge ventilation, sealed attic bypasses around can lights and chases, proper underlayment sequencing at valleys, and stepped flashing at sidewalls are the difference between a roof that ages evenly and one that fights ice and heat every season.
On the shingle side, six nails per shingle in high-wind areas, straight courses, and correct offsetting prevent wind lift and pattern telegraphing. On the metal side, correct clip selection, allowance for thermal movement, expansion joints on long runs, and closures at panel ends keep water and pests where they belong. We have returned to jobs a decade later where these details still look fresh. That is not luck. It is process.
What to ask during estimates
You will hear confident claims from every direction. Ask the same few concrete questions of each contractor and you will quickly separate confidence from competence.
- What underlayment system do you use on eaves and valleys in our snow zone, and how far upslope do you run it? For metal, which panel profile and gauge do you recommend for my wind exposure, and how are penetrations flashed? For shingles, what is the nailing pattern, and how do you handle ventilation to maintain the shingle warranty? Can I see local installs of the proposed system that are at least 5 years old? How do you handle snow retention, gutters, and heat cable planning to protect entries and walkways?
Five clear answers tell you more than a glossy brochure ever will.
A note on timing and seasonality
We install year-round, but the calendar influences technique. Cold-weather shingle installs need special attention because seal strips may not bond until temperatures rise. That means temporary hand-sealing in wind-prone areas. Metal installs are friendlier to cold, though working around snow and ice introduces safety and sequencing constraints. Spring and fall offer the best combination of temperature and crew availability. If you must re-roof in winter, plan for a bit more patience and targeted weather windows.
Bringing it all together for your home
There is no universal winner between metal and asphalt. There is a best fit for your house on your street with your plans. The right choice aligns with how long you intend to stay, how your roof handles snow and sun, and how you feel about maintenance. It respects budget without ignoring the second bill that arrives 20 years later.
Walk your roofline from the curb and from the attic. Notice where snow stacks in January and where the sun bakes in July. Think about your tolerance for a visible investment on the roof. Then talk with a contractor who has installed both systems long enough to have seen them age.
If you want that conversation grounded in local constraints and real installation detail, reach out to Mountain Roofers. We will bring samples, run the numbers, and sketch the details that make the difference between a good roof and a great one.
Contact Mountain Roofers
Contact Us
Mountain Roofers
Address: 371 S 960 W, American Fork, UT 84003, United States
Phone: (435) 222-3066
Website: https://mtnroofers.com/